Druboi Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Greetings, I grow M. tuberosa, H. formicarum, some Dischidia, and numerous other plants, including Nepenthes, Begonias, orchids, gesneriads, and sundry other plants, that catch my interest. I grow most, with the exception of a few grown in domes, similarly, with only the potting mix and lighting varying. I grown under T8, T12, and T5 fluorescents, with my caudiciform ant plants being under a 6 tube, T8 fixture, with reflector, on 9 hours per day, using 6,500k bulbs, approx 12-18" above the plants. Temperatures are typical indoor living temperatures, with 80F being an uncommon high and the low 50sF occurring at night, during the cold Winter. Otherwise, temps are typically in the low 60sF at night and between 70F-73F, during the day. Ambient humidity is highly, by virtue of having so many plants and is between 70%-90%, with 80% being most common. I acquired my M. tuberosa H. formicarum as golf ball sized caudexes, in December, 2014. Since then, both plants have attained caudex sizes of a large grapefruit and about 1' across, in the case of M. tuberosa. Both plants flower and fruit, regularly. I think these dramatic gains are attributable to my watering practices. I grow them in plastic pots (formerly clay) and utilize a constant feed and water method, by running a length of synthetic yarn through the pot bottom and over the pot rim, allowing the dangling yarn to hang through a plastic grid, into a reservoir of fertilized Reverse Osmosis water. The reservoirs are fed, nearly every topping off, with 1/8-1/4tsp per gal each of MaxSea, Peter's or MSU Orchid RO/Rain water formula, once every 6-8 weeks, the MaxSea is substituted with Jack's African Violet Formula, at the same dose. The reservoirs have gone dry, or the wicks have failed to draw water, when the plant was too rootbound, and the caudex shriveled slightly, in H. formicarum and leaves yellowed and dropped in M. tuberosa, but with hydration restored, both symptoms abated, within days. The constant moisture causes no rot, by virtue of a porous, loose mix, of coarse charcoal, #4 perlite, long fibered, dried, Chilaen Sphagnum, orchid bark, and the smallest amount of Promix. I grow my Nepenthes exactly as described, also, only they are on reservoirs of unfertilzed water and are sometimes foliar fed, with MaxSea, as well as supplying insects to the pitchers, as well as rare bits or organic fertilizer sticks. I also omit the Promix, in the Nepenthes growing mix. I hope I provided an interesting, novel, alternative, you might try, for growing your plants. I have just placed a nice order with Wistuba, for some new ant ferns and caudiciforms, as well as some choice Nepenthes, to arrive hopefully in September. I hope to try my luck with these highland species and report success, in a few months. Regards, Drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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