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  2. If anyone (apart from Andreas Wistuba) cultivate and propagate Hydnophytum caminiferum? I lost my plant last year and it is still unavailable for me. I can buy it or offer quite many rare plants like Amorphophallus pendulus. However I don't have any less popular ant plants for swap.
  3. frogsintn3


    oh shoot i will end of sept
  4. frogsintn3, The third photo in your posting above is not a M erinacea - The leaf shape is drastically wrong and there needs to be branched spines on the caudex.
  5. they are plants that like a humid atmosphere, so pay attention to their watering neither too much (with the risk of rotting) nor not enough (with the risk of desiccation) the second seem to be a hydnophytum moseleyanum ( old name H.papuanum)
  6. Hallo Jeff, Thanks for your reply yes I bought it in a garden center. in a few weeks I am going to a center that is specialized in Caudex plants. If I get special tips I will let you know warm wishes. Gonny
  7. your myrmecodia ( may be a beccarii) seem in good shape. it is a plant from garden center ?
  8. I think not bad its the amount of water maby
  9. have you a picture? what are yours growing conditions ?
  10. Hallo dear people, I have a question, my Myrmecodia tuberosa witch I bought a couple of weeks ago is loosing some leaves is this normal.
  11. Could be Thripses? Anyways, I am new to ant plants, bought same plant recently, it does have similar brown spots under the leaves, can't see any insects there though.
  12. thanks a lot, unfortunately the plant died. I found large deposits of mold all over the root and even on the caudex. unfortunately...
  13. Hi Anita, welcome to the forum. Why don't you gather a little more information on this. Perhaps use a single-edge razor blade to cut the raised area in several different directions and see if they are solid or if there are perhaps insect larvae inside. Are new ones forming constantly or did the plant come with a certain number and they are not increasing? You may want to do a precautionary spray for bugs, something like safer's insecticidal soap - especially lf more leaves are getting the deformation since you got the plant. If it is not showing up on new, previous uninfected leaves you may be able to end the whole problem by just cutting off the infected/infested leaves.
  14. Hi everybody, I purchased Myrmecodia beccari a few weeks ago and it came with something weird on the undersides of her leaves. I don't know whether it's a disease of some sort or pest. It is not critical yet but I think more and more leaves are getting it. I cut those leaves off just in case. I would appreciate it if you could give me any kind of information.
  15. Hi Ladislav, The other 3 plants in the case look good, are you treating this new one the same as those or different? What do you mean by "dew"? Does that mean you only mist the plant and do not saturate the growing media with water? Does the growing media for this sick plant have sphagnum in it or is it all bark pieces? I see the droopy leaves as either a lack of watering or as a fungus causing rot in the stem or caudex. If you have not given the plant a good watering yet - as in set the pot in a bucket of water for a few hours so the bark or sphagnum can fully absorb water - than do that immediately. (Do not submerge the actual plant just have the water deep enough in the bucket so the entire media has a chance to soak up all the water it can.) If you have the media fully saturated with water already, do not water more until it starts to dry out. If the drooping continues gently touch the stem and caudex to look for soft spots that could be rot. (If the pot is just very dry the caudex will be somewhat soft because it normally stores water - but if the softness is because of the caudex turning to black mush inside that is rot and it needs to be cut out if the plant is to have a chance to survive.) Let us know how you proceed and how it works. Good luck
  16. Please advise on the cultivation of M.tuberosa. I bought the plant from Dutch growers. It stands in a container with vents on the west window. I dew with rainwater every day. I did not transplant the plant. Temperatures in the vessel can be around 30-35 ° C. I do not know what I am doing wrong. Can anyone advise me?
  17. excellent 🤩 for mine a S.imberbis ( but also all my rubiaceae) I use now tree fern root in plate. I put my plant on the plate which is horizontal, with a little living sphagnum moss around it, so that it takes root well, then I hang it on the edge of my terra. when the plate is dry I saturate it with rainwater for fertilizer I use NPK : 13-19-19 commonly and some times 25-5-5 (exceptionally) FRANK how old is your plant ? you had it initially with flowers and drupe?
  18. What do I use for a growing media for Rubiaceous ant-plants you ask! The answer has changed many times over the years. What I am currently growing with is about: 33% long fiber sphagnum 27 % triple washed coconut husk chips 20% #3 perlite 15% Growstone, GS-2, for aeration 5% charcoal chips And for larger plants in larger pots I add about 5 to 10 % of Hydroton - baked clay pellets that are round and red. Now, for the finer details: SPHAGNUM The long fiber sphagnum has to be very good quality. The one I use now is a widely available one on eBay called “Spagmoss”. I soak it for an hour or two before using and then cut it into 1/2 to 1 inch pieces, slightly longer for large plants in larger pots. COCONUT HUSK CHUNKS I like the way roots attach to coconut husk chunks better than the bark I used to use. I use 1/8 to 3/8 inch size pieces for plants in smaller pots, say to 4 inch pots. Bigger pots than that I use 1/2 to 5/8 inch pieces. It is very important to triple soak these overnight to get the excess salt out of them. I have an electrical conductivity meter (DiST 3, Hana Instsruments) to measure the amount of salt in liquids. My tap water (city) registers about 140. When a put a bag of the husks into a 5 gallon bucket of that water within an hour the water tests out at over 1000. The next morning I dump that water and refill the bucket with fresh water. And again the third morning. After that if I fill with water again it tests in the 150s to 180 range and is ready for use. PERLITE I agonize over whether I should rinse off the perlite before use to get rid of the fine dust – or is it actually good in the mix? Now I generally pre-rinse only when I get near the bottom of the bag and there is a lot of the fines. GROWSTONE I like this in the mix for no apparent reason that I can think of other than it helps with drainage and therefore helps reduce root rot. CHARCOAL CHIPS These I definitely rinse before using otherwise the mix has a “dirty look” from the charcoal dust. HYDROTON I like using these because when I unpot a plant the roots will be hanging on to these. It is recommended to rinse and soak these before use. WATER AND FERTILIZER I make an effort to never let the pots dry out completely. I water as soon as the top of the media gets dry. My go-to fertilizer now is “Miracle Gro, water soluble tomato food, 18 -18 -21”. It has additional micronutrients. Once in a while I will switch over for a feeding or two to the Maxsea seaweed fertilizer (16-16-16) that Jay has championed here on the forum (also with micronutrients). I fertilize only when the plants are in active growth and only when the growing media is wet. There is nothing magical about the mix I use. Our individual growing conditions and climates are so different that it has to mean that no one mix will work for everyone. So you will need to experiment to see what works best for you. I hope my remarks will help you. Good Growing!
  19. Fantastic Frank! You surely have done well with the various Squamellaria! My S. major still look like pieces of string beans -with roots at one end and a profusion of leaves- but no appreciable growth on the caudex. Can you share your growing media recipe and also your fertilizing regime? Thanks!
  20. Ecological Research. Angelina Rowell, James Cook University, Cairns. Studied the relationships between Myrmecodia beccarii and Philidris ants in North Queensland mangroves. She reported (pers. comm.) that resident ants actually castrate their home plants by cutting up its flowers and transporting resultant pieces to their nests within tubers. Angelina found more buds and flowers were produced on ant-colonised, thus well-fed plants, so more fruit should develop on them. Yet, there were more fruits on uncolonised specimens, even though their bud and flower numbers were nutritionally constrained through a lack of ant feeding. Therefore, ants must be removing flowers before pollination, resulting inevitably in lower fruit/seed numbers. Furthermore, Angelina found that ants only removed flowers from their host plant, not from nearby uncolonised plants. Angelina’s Anova statistical analysis, showed that there was no significant difference between the fruit number on colonised versus uncolonised plants (i. e. fruit production is equal). Therefore, ants are not increasing home plant reproductive output. To belabor a point, trophic benefits that the plants are getting from their ants is not transferred to greater seed production because of flower castration. There are greater numbers of leaves on colonised plants, which in theory translates to a greater growth rate in the plant tuber and bigger domatia. But this project did not have enough time allocated to measure increase in plant growth. In summary, more buds, flowers and leaves on colonised plants does not result in more fruit and seed production. Angelina also noted on another thread. "We are looking at the spined form that occurs in the Cairns area. It seems that the majority of the flowers that are left on the plants by the ants develop into fruit. Not 100% sure if it is self pollinating - yet .....The ant interactions with this species is very interesting." I have tried to find more information on line but have not been successful. Attn Dr Guillaume Chomicki. This surely is important to the field of mutualisms.? It is very probable that resident ants are deliberately improving the growth rates of home tubers. Photos Angelina Rowell.
  21. Here's some information on DOIs: https://library.uic.edu/help/article/1966/what-is-a-doi-and-how-do-i-use-them-in-citations This works as a direct link without entering it in the search box on the doi site. Not sure why the original link isn't working like this when they seem the same. The original link could be tweaked to work directly. It still works but in a two part method by copying the doi and pasting it in the search box . Here's the same link, somehow I got it to work directly: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-90306-4_10-1
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